When you bring your vehicle in to have their brake rotors turned, it means that a mechanic will be machining your rotors to remove any additional brake material from the brake pads. This process prevents warping and grinding from occurring. If your rotors show any visible signs of being worn out, that means you should have them replaced. Physical signs of worn-out brake rotors include:. With over 50 years of experience, we know a thing or two about brakes and we can get you back on the road quickly.
Give us a call today to schedule an appointment! Normally both rotors need to be replaced because they will usually have the same amount of wear. Even if one side is "good enough" it is wise to replace both brake rotors at the same time to maintain even braking as any difference in rotor thickness will cause the brakes to pull to one side. If a brake rotor has minimal lateral runout it should wear evenly, otherwise the result will be thickness fluctuations which will create vibration.
It only takes. Excessive runout can be solved by installing tapered shims between the brake rotor and hub , or by resurfacing the rotor with an on-car brake lathe.
Runout can also be corrected using a conventional bench lathe, but it is a much more difficult procedure. Cleaning the face of the hub and the inside of the rotor hat with a drill powered brush before installation will remove dirt, rust, or any particles that can create gaps between the rotor and hub.
Rotor distortions can be caused by improper tightening of the lug nuts. Uneven torque between lugs can twist the rotor hat, causing the disc section of the rotor to wobble.
Friction from the brake pads against the brake rotors generates a lot of heat. Overheating brakes will shorten the life of both the pads and rotors. Vehicles that spend most of their time in stop-and-go traffic, pulling a trailer, or mountain driving will wear out the brakes much sooner than vehicles which are driven mostly in light traffic.
If the vehicle wasn't experiencing a brake pulsation, but the pads were low and the braking system was working fine--an exception to the rule in most cases--then perhaps just replacing the pads could have been performed successfully. But many customers don't know much about braking systems or they wouldn't have brought their car in for service to begin with.
So the repair shop decides to avoid a situation where the new pads create more fiction on an old rotor and a problem results. All the customer is going to think is that they just had their brakes done and now there's a new braking problem. It must have been something the brake repair facility did incorrectly. Instead of taking the chance of this occurrence, the repair facility tacks on an extra charge to either turn the rotors or replace them.
The best chance for non-problematic results when replacing brake pads is to replace the rotors. While many do-it-yourself mechanics may disagree with this because they've performed conventional "pad-slaps" without incident, let's explore this statement on a do-it-yourself level.
Not many people have a brake lathe sitting in their home garage. In order to have the rotors turned, you're going to have to remove them. Now the rotors are a little thinner than they were and if a problem reoccurs during the pad to rotor break-in period, you're going to have to do this all over again, only to find out the rotors are now too thin for turning.
Aftermarket rotors have been imported for many years now which has greatly reduced the cost of replacing them. Although the quality of these rotors is sometimes suspect, it has brought down the price of domestic rotors as well to stay competitive in the market. The ideal brake job consists of quality brake pads--don't go cheap on the components since you're saving money on labor if you're doing it yourself.
Mid-grade brake rotors or even high-grade will be better then low-balling price on the rotors.
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